Ceramic and porcelain tile is built to stay put, which is exactly why it's miserable to remove. Every piece has to be broken loose, the mortar and backer board come with it, and the pile gets heavy fast. Here's what to know before you rent a chisel.
Look underneath first
Pull one loose tile at an edge or a vent and look at what it's set on. Gray thinset or mortar on cement board or concrete is normal. Old black glue, often called mastic, or a layer of old vinyl under the tile is a different story: both can contain asbestos, and OSHA treats older flooring and its adhesive as asbestos until a test says otherwise. Stop and have it tested before breaking anything.
Keep the dust down
Breaking tile and mortar throws fine silica dust. OSHA's silica rule makes employers use water or a vacuum shroud and, for longer indoor work, respirators. At home, the same ideas apply: mist the floor as you go, close off the room and the vents, and wear a properly fitted respirator.
Plan for the weight
A tile floor with its mortar and backer board weighs far more than the same room of carpet, and landfills charge by the ton. Bucket it as you go so you're never lifting more than you can carry.
Where it goes
Missouri's clean-fill rules cover materials like concrete and brick kept separate, but ceramic tile isn't on that list, so tile goes to a permitted landfill as construction debris. In Kansas it's construction and demolition waste too.
Slab or wood subfloor
On a wood subfloor, the backer board unscrews and comes up with the tile. On a concrete slab, a thin layer of mortar usually stays stuck to the concrete, and your installer may grind it smooth before the new floor goes down.
When to hand it off
Our tile removal takes up ceramic and porcelain floor tile and the backer board, hauls every bucket away and sweeps, so your installer starts on a clean subfloor. We price it from room size and photos rather than truck space, because tile is heavy, and we stop if we find old black glue or vinyl underneath.
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